2023 Paul Lato Pinot Noir “Seabiscuit”, Zotovich Vineyard, Santa Rita Hills

San Francisco Wine Panel Score 97 Points

Zotovich is a fine and popular source for Pinot producers yet Lato is invariably its best purveyor. The nose of the lovely 2023 marries aromas of ripe Bing cherry, cranberry, red plums, Campari, saladitos, pink peppercorn, cinnamon “red hots”, sandalwood and dried herbs to create an exotic and lovely perfume. It is as focused and complex on the palate, where vibrant zest and very polished tannins team up with bittersweet cherry pit and hazelnut husk notes to frame-in more coiled flavors that nevertheless remain a true mirror of the aromas. The finish is ultra long if still a bit tight, but the balance is exquisite, so the wine is delicious despite any suggestions of youth. It should be dramatically more so in another two years or so and well beyond.